If you’re looking for a European destination that’s off-the-beaten-path, Rzeszów is a gem of a city waiting to be discovered, and with new direct flights from Malta with Ryan Air starting this summer, it’s suddenly easy to reach from our rock in the middle of the Med.
Founded in the 14th century, Rzeszów is a city of surprises: the largest city in southeastern Poland, it has the charm of a top historic town without the crowds, the vibrancy of a cultural hub with an authentic down-to-earth feel, and the beauty of nature is within easy reach too.
Located on the Wisłok River in the heartland of the Sandomierz Basin, the Old Town is the city’s heart: Rzeszów is a step back in time with cobbled streets, pastel-coloured, and landmarks including the old Town Hall, an elegant 19th-century structure that lights up beautifully in the evenings, adding a fairytale flavour to the city centre. In the evening, with an old lamppost in the foreground, it’s perfect for the Insta-feed. By day the Market Square in which it stands bustles with pedestrians and visitors to the many cafes, restaurants, and boutique shops.
Ten metres below the shoppers and diners, you’ll find Rzeszów’s most popular attraction: 400 metres of underground tunnels connecting 25 historic cellars some of which date back to the Middle Ages. Now open to visitors, after 17 years of restoration, visitors can take English-language guided tours to explore this network of passageways, storage spaces and wartime shelters and to uncover stories of merchants, warriors, and residents who once used and relied upon these secret subterranean routes.
Back above ground, Rzeszów boasts an impressive architectural tapestry, blending Gothic, Baroque, and Renaissance influences. One of its most striking landmarks is the grand Lubomirski Castle, built between 1902 and 1906 on the site of a sixteenth century fortress. Used as a prison until 1981, it now houses the seat of the provincial court and has small formal gardens in which to stroll.
Another must-visit site is the Bernardine Monastery, a stunning complex including a church adorned with intricate frescoes and ornate altars, and a destination for pilgrims and a sanctuary associated with the worship of the miraculous statue of Our Lady with the Child, known as Our Lady of Rzeszów, after she appeared to a local resident in 1513.
For a more modern take on architecture, the futuristic Rzeszów Footbridge, a distinctive 40m diameter circular ring that’s both a pedestrian walkway ‘floating’ 5m high in the sky, and an artistic statement to symbolise the city’s growth and innovation. At night, its illuminated glass railings are a striking addition to the city, as the traffic rushes beneath it.
With museums, theatres, and festivals too, there are plenty of options in Rzeszów for a culture fix. Look out, in particular for The Museum of Bedtime Cartoons which is currently hosting a Scooby Doo exhibition. It’s a quirky stop for animation enthusiasts, showcasing Poland’s rich history in animated storytelling. In contrast, for something more traditional The Ethnographic Museum presents the region’s folk traditions through colourful costumes, wooden crafts, and historical artifacts.
For performing arts lovers, the stunning ‘wedding cake’ building of the Wanda Siemaszkowa Theatre hosts an eclectic mix of classical and contemporary productions all year round.
And for dinner?
Traditional Polish dishes take centre stage here, with hearty options such as pierogi (dumplings), żurek (sour rye soup), and bigos (hunter’s stew). A must-try for the sweet-toothed is kremówka, a layered cream cake made famous by Pope John Paul II. Pair it with a strong Polish coffee or a glass of nalewka, a traditional fruit-infused liqueur, for the perfect afternoon treat.
And if you fancy a walk into the countryside, the Rzeszów Boulevard along the Wisłok River is a favourite among locals for walking, jogging, and cycling and you might even consider renting a kayak in the warmer summer months.
What book to pack for the flight?
Drive Your Plow Over the Bones of the Dead by Man Booker International Prize-winner Olga Tokarczuk is a subversive and entertaining noir novel. This unconventional crime story, a literary murder mystery is set in a remote Polish village where a reclusive eccentric in her sixties, a fan of the poetry of William Blake (from whose work the title of the book is taken) recounts the events surrounding the disappearance of her two dogs.
Published in 2019, Drive Your Plow Over the Bones of the Dead was chosen as a New York Times Readers Pick: 100 Best Books of the 21st Century and caused some political uproar in Tokarczuk’s native Poland.