I’m surrounded by the stunning beauty of Toro Toro Malta, but I can barely spare a thought for the dramatic views surrounding the eleventh floor, glass-clad restaurant. Chef Richard Sandoval – the legend whose innovative approach to Latin ingredients has given rise to a whole new modern mexican cuisine movement – is giving an exclusive masterclass in how to prepare ceviche and I only have one question.
How does he make it look so easy?
After I’ve polished off the finish result, accompanied by one of Toro Toro’s fruity cocktails of course, I repeat the question to him and he laughs. That’s because it actually is easy, he insists. It’s all about balance, apparently, and good, fresh ingredients. Well, that and maybe a touch of the Sandoval magic.
Now, this magic has landed in Malta courtesy of Toro Toro, the Pan-Latin chain of upscale restaurants that Chef has opened across the world. This latest restaurant is open on the 11th floor at Mercury Towers, but how will Toro Toro Malta fit in with the local landscape?
“When I opened Toro Toro in Dubai, there was nothing there. The scene was just beginning. Now, I came to Malta and saw this wonderful project that is Mercury Towers. And I see that there’s a growing fine-dining scene, too. There aren’t many international-chef driven restaurants on the island as yet, and I saw this as an opportunity to introduce my style of cuisine to Malta. My hope is that seeing places like this builds a fire in the new generation,” he tells me.
Speaking of his style of cuisine, it’s worth mentioning that Chef Sandoval is hailed as a pioneer in contemporary Latin cuisine. How did this love affair with the food of his country start?
“Mexican cuisine is bold, the flavours are warm and authentic. UNESCO has named it as an intangible, cultural heritage. But many people haven’t experienced real Mexican food. They think it’s all about westernised Tex Mex. There’s nothing wrong with Tex Mex, but it’s not authentic. This is what spurred the concept, the desire to show people real Mexican food, with a modern touch.”
He describes how, growing up in Mexico, it was all about authentic ingredients. Homemade tortillas, fresh avocado, real salsas… The Toro Toro concept follows these grassroots of Mexican food, while adding a new approach and a more modern technique.
“There are so many regions and flavours for people to experience. Bringing in a contemporary touch is important, however. I wanted to make the cuisine lighter. For example, before, recipes were more based in fat. Today we have more awareness about the health aspect of what we eat, so the recipes are modernised to reflect this. But the authenticity remains,” he explains.
And, turns out, when people experience the authentic cuisine they love it. Chef Sandoval’s restaurants are present in 60 restaurants all over the world, including New York, Florida, Mexico, Qatar, Morocco, Spain, Turkey, Dubai and now Malta, with Toro Toro under the direction of Executive Chef Danny Reyes.
“Pan-Latin cuisine is slowly, but surely, growing in Europe. I first collaborated with Chef Danny for the first time five years ago in Mexico. I was immediately impressed with his work ethic, his passion, his flavour profiling. When I encounter talent, I try to bring it into my world and that’s how I asked him to come work with us,” Chef Sandoval explains.
Chef Reyes will be based in Malta, where he will be bringing a localised version of Toro Toro to guests, making the most of our Mediterranean fish, sea-food and other produce.
“Toro Toro Malta will have a special focus on fish and sea-food, in fact, because this is the perfect place for it. I believe that our presence here will open open up curiosity in people, so hopefully this will be the beginning of more international chefs setting up on the island, with different styles and cuisines enriching the scene.”
Creating and running a global fine-dining brand can’t be all smooth-going. And we’ve seen many other chefs seemingly lose their touch just when it seemed like nothing could touch them. What is the biggest mistake Chefs who are opening a fine-dining restaurant succumb to?
“Expanding too fast. With technology and globalization we have access to things very fast and, once people are successful, they want to move to the next big thing. My advice is always to take your time to understand, to first be successful at one thing. And, when you start a new project, be prepared to work a lot and to come back to take care of your first passion. I have seen many chefs over-expanding and losing everything,” he replies.
And finally, for someone visiting Toro Toro for the first time, what is the one dish that is a must-try, and why?
“The Ceviche Amarillo – one dish that really touches on all the things I want the people to experience. Chili, colour, acidity and the beauty of the presentation. An excellent representation of Mexican cuisine for modern times,” he concludes with a smile.
Quickfire Q&As
What are your earliest memories of food – even as a child?
I fell in love with cooking without knowing, living with my grandmother. At a very young age. I would sit on kitchen counter, watch, taste. I experienced things that many other kids didn’t, at a young age.
When did you know that this was going to be your chosen life?
I wanted to be a tennis player. When travelling for tennis I was trying to understand the foods of the countries I was in, curious about ingredients. Then I realised I needed to make a life changing decision.My dad was in the restaurant business and I knew I loved everything about food. The rest was history. The rush of the kitchen is not unlike the adrenaline rush of a tennis tournament, after all.
What’s the biggest challenge the job brings with it?
The travel. I’m often on a plane, trying to adjust to different time zones.
What is your biggest guilty pleasure in terms of food?
Bad food like chocolate and burgers.
Do you cook for yourself?
Yes, very simple things. At a restaurant it’s very high level ingredients and techniques… at home it’s grilling, cooking outdoors, protein, olive oil, good herbs… I go simple.
