Expressive fashion should tell stories just as vividly as any novel or film. I’m here to shine a spotlight on the collections that didn’t just look good but spoke loudly during Malta Fashion Week, leaving unforgettable stories in the minds of the viewers.
Some designers brought statement silhouettes that demanded attention styling, tailoring and finish, and the event was more than a quality runway show: it was an in person ‘lookbook’.
Having spoken to most of the designers backstage and as their collections unfolded, it was clear many had something to say, and they said it well. These included Captain’s Cut, RAD by Radina Nikolova, Guidera by Aisling Guidera, Røegue by Jethro Schembri, Yana’s Jewellery, Gabrielle Fenech, Isaac Fenech, Charles & Ron all of whom didn’t just make clothes but expressed a cohesive concept.
Arguably the strongest concept of the first day was Captain’s Cut Leather, ‘Minsuġa’ by Keith J. Caruana and styled by Linda Boranga. The collection opened with a live guitar solo: the guitar was a rare model, and the performer was designer’s own father. It was an altruistic tribute and declaration of intent, setting the tone for a show rooted in craft, passion, and legacy.
A show of airy white lace and naturally-dyed brown leather unfolded. Essentially, the collection preserved the fragile lace in the durable material that itself ages naturally with wear. The styling was synonymous with typical Italian effortless elegance. Simply put, the collection had a strong spirit; craftsmanship and charisma with a hint of theatre. The show ended with a bride tossing her bouquet, catching the attention of a charmed audience.
Next on the list is RAD by Radina Nikolova. ‘Mediva’ drew from the mythic allure of medieval fantasy, with glinting chainmail details, armour-like silhouettes, and flourishes that evoked the aura typical of knights and high priestesses. Radian set the scene within the first few seconds by starting the show with a hauntingly beautiful Gregorian chant – a kind of echoing charged cathedral hum.
The ethereal vibe carried into the first look, followed by a model clutching a candelabra, striding out to a backdrop of whispered affirmations. The atmosphere was rich with symbolism, nods to nature, the divine feminine, and a designer who clearly knows how to build a world, not just a wardrobe.
Each MCAST student brought a fresh and unique vision, drawing from themes varying from lived experience, techno music, and international symbolism and aesthetic. The collections felt personal yet ambitious. Whether exploring heritage, gender expression, or subcultural style, each designer found a way to translate their bold ideas into wearable narratives.
Speaking to Jeandor Farrugia and both designers after winning their respective awards, I discovered Aisling’s excitement about the growing space for textile designers in Malta, as she expressed heartfelt gratitude for the unwavering support of her family and friends. Jethro, in turn, praised his fellow designers, celebrating the collective talent, effort, and success of his peers.
The Fashion Stylist Award was awarded for the second consecutive year to Jeandor Farrugia. Recently, Jeandor has been working on Miriana Conte’s iconic looks and branding, and highlighted Gabrielle Fenech’s collection as his personal favourite. Recently back from the Eurovision and the tours in London and Zurich, the stylist expressed excitement for what’s to come here in future.
This year marked a first: not one, but two awards went to MCAST students, including Up & Coming Textile Designer, to recognise emerging talent in textile design, which was awarded to Guidera by Aisling Guidera. In her notably inspiring collection, Aisling drew from the colour palette of her lived experience, capturing the essence of nature and transforming it into striking wearable works of art. The collection was captivating, and after speaking to Aisling, it was easy to picture her thoughtfully weaving together each element with care and intention.
The Up & Coming Fashion Designer Award gave a well-deserved spotlight to emerging designer Jethro Schembri, the designer behind Røegue. The collection, ‘Emancipation: A Riot in Black’, explored and challenged the boundaries of traditional men’s and woman’s clothing. Cohesive in colour but diverse in texture and silhouette, and the final look felt like a bold culmination of the designer’s concept.
Yana’s Jewellery brought the spirit of la dolce vita to the runway, showcasing bold statement pieces infused with a sun-soaked Mediterranean palette and charming lemon and coral motifs. While the overall presentation delivered on energy and creativity, a broken shoe during the final walk could hint at areas that would benefit from extra refinement. These small polish points would elevate the experience further, without distracting from the strength of the collection. Aside from that, the collection offered a breath of fresh summer elegance, elevated by meticulously crafted statement jewellery.
Though the creative energy of the night was undeniable, there were a few technical details that risked overshadowing it. Namely, noticeable gaps in the runway carpeting that could have posed a hazard. Thankfully, the models navigated it gracefully, but a smoother setup would help ensure all eyes stay on the collections, not the floor.
Gabrielle Fenech, ‘Layers of Memory’ final look. Photo: Rebecca Delia
Gabrielle Fenech opened the final night of Malta Fashion Week 2025 with her collection, ‘Layers of Memory’. The final look stood out with its layered construction, corseted waist, and angsty elegance brought a distinct edge to the collection; inspired by early 2000s collections by Vivienne Westwood. The layered element and corseted waist of her final, as well as the colour palette, purple and pink windowpane pattern, and yellow tulle delivered a striking silhouette.
The smaller detail of the short white lace gloves as a nod to prior pieces in the collection added to the cohesion and transformative quality of the collection. And once again, the music and Gabrielle’s voiceover before the start of the collection definitely added an intimate, personal layer to the presentation.
Isaac Fenech’s collection, ‘On the Board’ was, for me, a highlight of this year’s fashion week, marking him out as one of the most promising designers emerging on the Maltese fashion scene. The concept behind the collection came through right from the opening track, setting the mood from the start.
The finish of each of his piece was excellent; every look was refined down to the hem. Isaac’s concept retained its contemporary perspective and nuanced quality in each piece of the line-up. The guests’ response spoke volumes, with the collection receiving high praise across the board.
Charles & Ron closed the week with their spring/ summer 2025, ‘Beneath the Waves’. One of the most striking elements of the collection was its focus on movement and flow. Light, airy fabrics like chiffon and organza were used to reflect the fluidity of the sea, capturing its ever-shifting motion with careful choreography and sense of visual symmetry.
The collection featured a mix of elegant and casual pieces, with a playful pop of blue tights that added a youthful touch to the otherwise refined line-up. It also delivered a masterclass in cohesive colour and texture, with bursts of orange and embellished fabrics that stayed true to the collection’s core concept.
The choice of pattern derived from underwater photography was a clever nod to how little we really know about what lies beneath the ocean’s surface, and the designers translated that unknown into something visually captivating. Year after year, Charles & Ron delivered another show stopper, demonstrating the quality and fresh concepts present at the heart of the brand.
The week was a celebration of rising talent, showcasing bold ideas, fresh perspectives unbothered by the status quo. While there’s always room to refine the experience and technical quality, the creativity on display signals an exciting future for local fashion.
See our previous articles on Malta Fashion Week 2025
Malta Fashion Week 2025: Day 1
Malta Fashion Week 2025: Day 2
Malta Fashion Week 2025: Day 3
Malta Fashion Week 2025: Day 4
and
Behind the scenes with Rebecca Delia, Day 1
Behind the scenes with Rebecca Delia, Day 2
Behind the scenes with Rebecca Delia, Day 3
Behind the scenes with Rebecca Delia, Day 4
